Climb to Toubkal

Some words:

Toubkal (Berber: ⴰⴷⵔⴰⵔ ⵏ ⵜⵓⴱⵇⴰⵍ, Adrar n Tubqal; Arabic: جبل توبقال‎) is a mountain peak in southwestern Morocco, located in the Toubkal National Park. At 4,167 meters (13,671 ft), it is the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains and in North Africa. It is located 63 km south of the city of Marrakesh, in the Toubkal National Park. The first ascent by Europeans was on 12 June 1923 by the Marquis de Segonzac, Vincent Berger and Hubert Dolbeau, but the mountain may have been climbed before that date.

Berbers (Berber: ⵉⵎⴰⵣⵉⵖⴻⵏ Imazighen / Imaziɣen) are the indigenous ethnic group of North Africa west of the Nile Valley. They are continuously distributed from the Atlantic to the Siwa oasis, in Egypt, and from the Mediterranean to the Niger River. Historically they spoke the Berber language and local varieties of it, which together form the "Berber branch" of the Afro-Asiatic language family. Today, varieties of Maghrebi colloquial Arabic are spoken by a large portion of Berbers besides the Berber language itself. Foreign languages like French and Spanish, inherited from European occupation, are used by some educated Berbers in Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria in some formal contexts such as higher education or business.

Today, most Berber-speaking people live in Morocco and Algeria. Smaller Berber-speaking populations are scattered throughout Tunisia, Libya, Mauritania, Mali and Niger, as well as large migrant communities living in Europe

Ramadan (Arabic: رمضان‎ Ramaḍān, IPA: [rɑmɑˈdˤɑːn];^[variations] Persian: ‎ Ramazān, Ramezũn; Urdu: Ramzān; Turkish:Ramazan) is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar;^[4] Muslims worldwide observe this as a month of fasting.^[5][6] This annual observance is regarded as one of the Five Pillars of Islam.^[7] The month lasts 29–30 days based on the visual sightings of the crescent moon, according to numerous biographical accounts compiled in hadiths.^[8][9] The word Ramadan comes from the Arabic root ramida or ar-ramad, which means scorching heat or dryness.^[10]

While fasting from dawn until sunset Muslims refrain from consuming food, drinking liquids and sexual relations. According to Islam, the sawab (rewards) of fasting are many, but in this month they are believed to be multiplied. Fasting for Muslims during Ramadan typically includes the increased offering of salat (prayers) and recitation of the Quran.

Fasting does not pose any medical risks to healthy individuals. A team of cardiologists in the UAE found that people observing Ramadan enjoy a positive effect on their lipid profile, which means there is a reduction of cholesterol in the blood. Fasting reduces a number of physical diseases such as liver diseases, high blood pressure, indigestion and many more. Might be true but when you climb the all day with more than 30 degree without drinking, this can not be healthy......

Day 1

Arrival at Marrakesh Airport after 2.50 flight and taff control at Orly Airport. 1 hour after security check.

Local Maroco time was 17.00 and outside 43 degree. I met the guide Mohamed and we drove to the hotel. After changing money and buying some water for the trek, I had a lunch good night quite depressive in the hotel, waiting to see to group.

Day 2

After a frugal breakfast, I finally met the group.We are 9, coming from all parts of France even Belgium: Laurence, Nathalie, Chantal, Nadine, Rachel, Benjamin, Christophe, Nicolas.

We left Marrakesh around 08.00.

We reached Iminigrad around 1300 meters at 10 o’clock.

We meet the 4 mules, the cook and the sherpas.

Let s start!

After 3 hours walk with 40 deg and 700 meters climb we reached the pass Tizi Tacht at 2020 meters.

We went down in the Azzaden valley to have lunch. First mint tea and some nice vegetables, hope will not regret :-)

We continued after to the hut Ait Aissa at 1800 meters.

We will spend the night there.

For our guide and sherpas it is difficult as we are full in Ramadan. So no eating and drinking before Sun set.

After arrival, we went for a little walk in the Berber village. Of course a group of 5 tourists made the attraction for the all evening. A lot of kids saying "bonjour, stylo". Back to the hut we were resting and waiting for dinner with the sun set. Finally Mohamed could eat and drink with us.

The sky was amazing. We could see the milky way.

Day 3

Start at 07.00 from the hut after light breakfast. We went to the valley of Imlil after crossing the village full in activity as it was not so warm. Some women were cleaning carpets or washing clothes. The men were busy at the field to cut grass or taking care of the sheep’s

After 2-3 hours walk, we reached sheep house of Tamzolt. After a long break because of Ramadan, we visited the cascade of Lepiney around 2000.

We went back to the Sheep house and started to climb up to 2500. We reached the camp for the night at Tizi n izgarn. After some rest, we went to the water source to get some water to drink with some pils.

Near Sun set, we had an invasion of goats coming back from the mountain.

We made a fire to animate the evening and after left for good night sleep in the tent.

Day 4

Wake up 06.30 to prepare the bags and clean the tents. After breakfast, we and the mules were ready to go.

After some minutes walk we were faced with a wall: the climb of the Aglzia pass, 90 turns, 3500 reach. 60 minutes later we were up. We enjoyed the view on the valley of Neltner and Toubkal Pic the Challenge for tomorrow.

We reached finally our camp 2 hours later, just bellow Toubkal base camp with two stone-built refuges (old Neltner Refuge and new Refuge du Toubkal) that are often used as base camp at 3,207 m. It is possible to buy good meals in the Refuge du Toubkal and to take a shower for 2 euro.

With our camp it was surprise surprise: difficult to find a place to pitch the tent without wind. The tents were not adapted for such wind so we had improvise and reaching a B plan and finally sleep in the marabout tent.

The place was also quite dirty with plastic bottles, old boxes, and other things I would not like to describe. Would be appropriate for each group coming to spend ½ hour cleaning before leaving a camp.

For dinner we had nice spaghetti plate, just the right thing before the pic ascension.

After a short night in the marabout tent, the wind, the cold, the prier at 4 o’clock and the wake up call at 5.10 we were ready for departure at 06.00 so early....

Day 5

We started the climb, it was windy and I did not know what to wear, too hot too cold, and the start was tuff, I was still sleepy. After some meter we started to feel the altitude climbing in this rock field, for me it was around 3700. I put some music on, had some water and moved on in regular slow rhythm After few meters I was back on track. Anyway before this type of climb good to see the weather: http://www.meteoblue.com/fr_FR/meteo/previsions/semaine/jebel-toubkal_ma_58583

After 3 hours climb, we reached a col (Tizi'n'Toubkal at 3,940m). At the col the route turns left (northwards) to the summit ridge of Jbel Toubkal.

Few meters to the pic, we waited the all crew so we could get there together.

30 minutes later it was there, Toubkal, highest pic in North Africa crowned with a curious pyramidal metal frame and views take in most of the Atlas with 4167 meters.

The view was amazing despite the morning brume. We stand some minutes to make some pics before climbing down to our camp.

After 3 hours of a technical descent, looking at the rest of a plane that crashed some years ago. On July 28, 1969: a plane crashed and all eight passagers on board died. The plane which was carrying weapons to Biafra, was discovered on July 18, 1970 by mountaineers.

After the sleepy descent, we were tired and ready for an afternoon sleep. Impossible to sleep with the flies either to read, so we went up to the hut for shower and nice aperitif. We clarified the tips question.

Back to camp, the cook made chicken with lemon which was excellent. For the one that are interested in Berber cuisine here a link: http://www.yummly.com/recipes/berbere-chicken.

During the camp, I asked to get some recipies, without success so....:-(

After this dinner we were ready for a good night sleep, but the wind decided differently.....

Day 6

After an other difficult night between the wind pushing the tents, with the feeling the tent is going to fly away. For sure the tents were not made for this type of conditions.

The positive thing is that I was alive and kicking at 6.00. Tent and bags packed at 7.00. Even had the opportunity to give some german bread to the mules. I think they enjoyed it....

Finishing the breakfast some convoy passed by and stone avalanche started but the convoy had just the time to pass. Lucky.

After preparing our self we were ready for 4 hours descent into the valley, following Assif n Isougouane river and through the marabout of Sidi Chamharouch. We had a lunch looking at children fishing truit in the river under rocks.

Now we were back to civilization was also interesting to see that the group already started to speak about planes, work, family. The thoughts, worries that we forgot during the trek time came back but I could look at them from a different perspective.

Finally after the lunch break we reached the village of Imlil at 1700. This night hope will be less noisy and windy, at least we had good condition sleeping in a very nice riad.

Day 7

After breakfast we joined Marrakesh for relax day. Hammam experience in Didi SPA, Rue Prince My Rachid, was real fun....

After some shooping in the souk and nice diner in Foundouk on the terrasse.

Ready for an other early wake up at 3.50 to take the plane back to Praha!

Nice trip, nice people, happy I did it.